Each amino acid is connected together by a "peptide bond".
The peptide bond is located between the carbon atom of one amino acid extending
to
bond with
the nitrogen atom of the next amino acid.
The A Helix
Coil
In the organization of a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted
together to form a "protofibril". This is actually the first fibril
structure of the hair. Nine protofibrils are then bundled in a circle around
two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the "microfibril".
These microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein matrix
of high sulfur content and hundreds of such microfibrils are cemented into
an irregular fibrous bundle called a "macrofibril".
These macrofibrils are grouped together to form the cortex (or the main body)
layers of the hair fibre. Packed dead cells surround these structures and are
known as the cuticular layers of the hair. In the centre of these structures
lies the medullary canal, which is actually part of the excretory system and
houses any foreign debris, heavy metals, synthetics and medications that are
thrown off by the body and eventually released through the canal.
Bonding in Keratin Protein
When the hair is in its normal unstretched state. It
is referred to as A of alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair
is held in place by the bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair. As
we stated earlier, keratin protein begins with an alpha helix building into
protofibrils, microfibrils, macrofibrils, then cortex layers. The bonds in
the hair are located within each and every alpha helix.
The Hydrogen Bond
This bond is located between the coils of the alpha
helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity
and return back to its original shape. The hydrogen bonds allow us to change
the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water. These bonds are electrolytically
controlled and are the most readily broken down and the most readily reformed.
These bonds are responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair
and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
 The
Salt Bond
The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled)
bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group
(an amino acid with an 00C- group) to the side chain of an acidic amino acid,
i.e. NH3+. (This is two positive and negative charges attracting one another.)
This occurs in a position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the
helix of the hair. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the
strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
The Cystine Bond
The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond,
sulfur bond, or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues
(amino acids) of the main polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular to
the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains. Because of its position
in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance.
(It actually holds the hair fibres together.) These cross-links are frequent
in the hair fibre, with maximum frequency of one cystine bond every four turns
of the alpha helix. This is what enables us to permanent wave the hair.
The Sugar Bond
The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of
an amino acid having an OH group and an acidic amino group. This bond is also
formed perpendicular to the axis of the hair. Because of its position, it gives
the hair toughness but little strength (5%). Some moisture is contributed to
the hair as a by product of this bonding.
Preventing Damage
Damage to the hair is usually caused by heat (irons, blow drying, curlers,
heat lamps, etc.), U.V. rays (Sun, lights, tanning beds), mechanical devices
(combs, brushes, curling irons, etc.), chemicals (color, perms, relaxers, pool
chemicals, the air, etc), or poor diet (specifically -lack of proteins and
essential fatty acids).
Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent
damage to your hair:
1) Use a thermal protector when using heat.
2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little moisture in.
3) Use a conditioner with U.V. protectors built in.
4) Use a low or no ammonia hair colour.
5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.
6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb.
7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends and work up.
8) Clarify your hair after you swim.
9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.
10) Eat protein rich foods (chicken, fish, nuts) - Eat foods rich in essential
fatty acids (not from animal sources [they contain cholesterol]-only from botanical
sources) - See also faster growing hair
Quick Fixes
These are only temporary fixes, they do not provide real solutions to damaged
hair. They provide a way to get the hair looking good fast however we do not
want to give you the impression these ideas should be used on a regular basis.
1) "Scrunch" or mist a glosser into dry hair. Many companies claim
glossers "repair the hair", they don't. They do coat the hair with
a layer of silicone oil (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) see glossers under conditioners
2) Use a flexible styling gel. Apply to damp hair and blow dry or air dry.
3) Take 1-3 drops of mineral oil in your hand. Rub your hands together and "scrunch
into dry hair. |
