Advice on hair conditioners

What is a " Hair Conditioner"?

The term " hair conditioner" is vague because hair conditioners fall into various groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair need a specific kind of "conditioner", whilst people with thick hair need a different formulation.

Conditioners fall into six major categories:

Moisturizers
Reconstructors
Acidifiers
Detanglers
Thermal Protectors
Glossers
Oils (E.F.A.'s- essential fatty acids)

Moisturizers

Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain botanicals or protein but they often do.

Reconstructors

Normally contain protein. Hydrolyzed human hair keratin protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables it to penetrate the hair shaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strengthen the hair.

Acidifiers

The key word here is "acid". Yes, it is good to put acid on your hair. When a product carries a pH of 2.5 to 3.5 it is normally termed an acidifier. This pH will close the cuticle layer of the hair. The result is shiny, bouncy hair. This pH range will adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds. Acidifiers do not weigh the hair. They do create shine, and add elasticity. This category is great for people with fine textured hair.

Detanglers

Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's 2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some "shield" the hair shaft with polymers. Some detanglers are instant, some take up to 5 minutes to work.

Glossers

For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most glossers contain dimethicone or cyclomethicone ( very light oils derived from silicone). Used in small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the best products to control the "frizzies."

Oils (E.F.A.'s)

If you have dry hair you need to add oil to your hair. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFA's are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contain EFA'S). EFA's can take very dry and porous hair and transform it into soft pliable hair.